Push off from St. John's harbour at 9:30 and trace a coast of limestone cliffs, sea caves and water clear enough to read the shadow of every fish.
Kardamyli sits on the Outer Mani, between the Messinian Gulf and the Taygetos — the snowline some years still visible from the kayak in April. The old customs at St. John’s fishing harbour is the put-in: a stone quay, a few caïques, the blue Prijons stacked on the pebbles. From the water the coast reveals itself slowly. Cliffs sculpted into rock gardens. Stalactite-roofed caves you duck into rather than paddle through. The Blue Cave, where a crack in the limestone throws a column of aquamarine light onto the seafloor — the trip’s quiet showpiece, and the reason we only run mornings.
The water here is honest. In May it is sixteen degrees and you’ll be glad of the spray-deck; by July it is warm enough to swim between caves without thinking about it. The wind is why we launch at 09:30 and not later. Mornings on this coast are glass; by midday the gulf breeze pushes in from the south-west and the swim stops get colder than they look from the harbour wall. Be back on dry stone for lunch in the village — the wind will have turned by the time the plates land.